Primitivo

Primitivo is perhaps most famous in the moment for what it is not instead of what it is. For many years Primitivo was believed to be closely related to Zinfandel. However, recent research in Croatia and at the University of California at Davis, using DNA profiling, has proved Zinfandel is a clone of the Croatian variety Crljenak Kastelanski, and that Primitivo is in fact genetically identical to Zinfandel – simply another clonal variation of Crljenak Kastelanski.

Confused? So is the TTB. The U.S. Treasury Department has insisted that Zinfandel and Primitivo cannot be bottled together and must be labeled as different varietals, even though the DNA evidence proves they are the same! There does appear to be clonal differences however.

Primitivo clusters are much smaller than Zinfandel berry clusters. Primitivo always ripens earlier, and gets much riper without the shriveling of berries that Zinfandel often gets.

In the finished wine itself, Primitivo has an even greater jammy and berry character than does Zinfandel. It has so much fruit that it stands up better to higher alcohol levels, and doesn’t get the raisin-like character that is sometimes present with high-alcohol Zinfandel. It’s sort of like the Primitivo tastes like Zinfandel on steroids. So, if you like your Zin highly alcoholic and bold, and both loaded with fruit and oak, you’ll want to check out Primitivo. Look for it to come primarily from California.

A wine this big isn't easy to pair with food, although the standard Zinfandel matches usually do well. Char-grilled steaks, osso-bucco, pork roast, pot roast, prime rib, braised lamb shanks, roast leg or rack of lamb, etc. It can also be good with game dishes like venison, elk, antelope, and buffalo. Or try it with hamburgers, cheeseburgers, brats or other grilled sausages, or even hot dogs.